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Thread: Nomad final assembly

  1. #381
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Here's a quick video of the engine running with the cutouts open after getting it started back up.

    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5ZN1tPahnu8

    I don't know how to "embed" the video here and I tried twice. But the link seems to work.
    Last edited by chevynut; 12-01-2022 at 12:18 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #382
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Your video link comes up as "private" and wont' open when the youtube site is reached. FYI
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  3. #383
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    The liftgate looks perfect, CN! and that is one of the worst areas on a Nomad... getting the drain gutter lined up across the liftgate to roof and having the liftgate 'fit' in it's set!

  4. #384
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    thanks for the update. You've certainly had your share of issues. Those fuel line issues could have been disastrous.

  5. #385
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    Your video link comes up as "private" and wont' open when the youtube site is reached. FYI
    Okay, I think I fixed it...let me know.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #386
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy View Post
    That's cool, you just made me feel good about lifting one end of my '55 with my engine hoist!! Where did you hook the front chains to?
    Troy, as you might be aware, I don't have any hinge holes in the firewall so I couldn't use those. What I did is put strong 3/8" eyebolts through the cowl body mounts that I attached the chains to. I used a spreader to keep the chains vertical and keep them clear of everything. That's why I had to set the body on urethane blocks first, then use jacks to lower it onto the chassis.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #387
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Great sound coming out from under that Nomad!

    Wait...did i see a red corvette in the background?
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  8. #388
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    While I'm waiting for my painter to get my other two inner fender pieces done, I thought I'd try to install the radiator cover/air intake. I still need to rivet the Dzus springs onto it so I wanted to check the fit again. I was also surprised that I could actually get the throttle body connector hose on with it installed, but I don't plan to do it that way unless I forget it. LOL.

    I'll probably eventually fab a nice metal cover that goes over the hose to hide it. Not going to mess with that yet.

    IMG_4844.jpeg

    IMG_4843.jpeg
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #389
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Troy, as you might be aware, I don't have any hinge holes in the firewall so I couldn't use those. What I did is put strong 3/8" eyebolts through the cowl body mounts that I attached the chains to. I used a spreader to keep the chains vertical and keep them clear of everything. That's why I had to set the body on urethane blocks first, then use jacks to lower it onto the chassis.
    Thanks Lazlo! I was wondering about the hinge holes, I couldn't see them!!

  10. #390
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    So earlier this year I started installing the quarter glass in the Nomad. I have read stories about how difficult and frustrating this process is on these cars, which seem to have been all hand-built with hammers and crowbars. I looked for as many tips as I could find, and pulled the glass out of storage that I bought many years ago. I bought a complete smoked gray set from Auto City when I thought I was going to need it "soon".

    As I mentioned, the liftgate glass went fine and everything fit okay. When I pulled the curved quarter glasses out of the box the first thing I noticed was that one of them was delaminated in the lower rear corner. I pulled the second one out and noticed it had a different label on it, and instead of gray it was a little bronze. The color was close, but not exact. I have a bad habit of not opening boxes and checking things out, which I need to start doing . I just hated unboxing and unwrapping glass that was protected. I called Auto City and they said they couldn't back up glass that was bought that long ago, and I argued that the color wasn't even right. In the end, I ordered another pair of curved quarters for over $500, which is more than half of what I paid for the whole kit that included the windshield.


    IMG_3554.jpeg

    IMG_3559.jpeg

    IMG_3553.jpeg

    IMG_3558.jpeg


    I got the new glass and pulled the rubber out of storage to try to install it. I don't remember where I got the rubber, whether it came with the glass kit or if I got it somewhere else. Anyhow, I tried installing the rubber onto the glass and the corners just didn't fit right. For some reason they made the back corners at a 90 degree angle when it's obvious they're angled quite a bit. Here's what it looked like when I put one of them on the glass. It was a struggle just to keep the rubber on the glass even with tape. Notice the lip.


    66614215703__4CEBA9DC-9DE2-4B7E-A2F6-714967A52856.jpeg

    IMG_3669.jpeg


    Here's what it looked like installed, which I didn't like. This was a result of the bad corners, imo. I tried pushing and pulling on the rubber and decided it wasn't going to work.


    IMG_3689.jpeg

    IMG_3688.jpeg


    So I ordered new Danchuk quarter glass rubber that others had recommended and noticed it had a "lip" all the way around it. The other rubber I had also had a lip, but it didn't go around the corners. I started wondering why they designed a lip into the rubber. After doing some research, I found out that there is a dispute among Nomad restorers as to whether the rubber was supposed to go inside the stainless trim, or OVER it. I had a guy contact me who has a business restoring only Nomads and we talked about it. He said he always puts the lip over the stainless. Then I recalled that a long time ago at a Nomad convention I overheard two guys looking at a car and talking about that lip, and one guy saying that car was "correct" as the lip was over the top of the stainless. So apparently this has been an ongoing controversy for decades.


    IMG_3748.jpeg


    Now one has to ask....WHY would every manufacturer of this glass seal, even the original GM seal, put that lip in the part if it wasn't for a purpose? That kept working in the back of my mind but I tried to install the glass with the seal down behind the stainless anyhow. Both sides fit like shit. The glass wouldn't go all the way back to the liftgate where it was supposed to sit which made it not fit up by the slider. The slider channels would not fit right because there was a "jog" at the front of the quarter glass. I pushed and pulled trying to get it to fit right and close the gap at the bottom of the curve and it just would not go. The curve was slightly off and I figured I'd have to fill it with sealer. There were problems on both sides.

    So I pulled the glass out and put a rope around the lip like you would do on a windshield and installed it. The glass almost fell into place. It slid back to the liftgate, the slider channels would now line up, and it looked good with no visible gaps. If you think about it, the glass was actually 1/16" or more further outboard and back than it was with the lip the other way. So I left it like this, despite some restorers claiming it's wrong. I personally believe GM intended for the lip to be over the top of the stainless, but the assembly workers at the factory were too lazy to do it right, or they didn't know any better, so a lot of cars - maybe most of them - got the glass installed with the lip behind the stainless. if that's not the case, why is the lip even there?


    IMG_3763.jpeg

    66871777750__1F6DC528-1145-4E72-8E65-9E188DC7B228.jpeg


    I decided I liked the look of the rubber over the stainless, it eliminated any gaps between the rubber and the stainless, the glass fit better, the slider channels fit better, so I installed all the glass retainers and called it "done".
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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